2004 Toyota Prius

If your Toyota Prius has a 100k miles or more, it’s time to change the CVT Transmission fluid.  Toyota doesn’t recommend a service interval but after much research and discussion with Prius experts, I have decided to perform this service at 100k mile intervals.  It is a petroleum-based lubricant and will eventually become dirty and lose some lubricity.

Toyota Prius CVT Transmission Fluid Change - Fluid Condition

This is not a difficult job.  Anyone with some mechanical knowledge and basic tools can perform this maintenance task.

Parts List

• Four quarts of Toyota ATFWS transmission fluid
• Two new Toyota CVT drain/fill plug gaskets
• Torque wrench
• 10mm allen socket
• socket extension
• oil drain pan
• section of plastic tubing and funnel that fits in the tube end
• Carpenter’s level
• rags

Prius Transmission Fluid Change - Tools

Maintenance Steps

1. Drive the car around to warm up the fluid. This will make it flow easily for draining.
2. Put the car in Park, turn it off and set the emergency brake.
3. Drive the front of the Prius onto ramps.
4. Open the passenger side door and place a level on the door jamb.
   

   Leveling the Prius

5. Have an assistant watch the level while you jack up the rear of the vehicle using a heavy duty jack. Once the car is level, place two jackstands underneath for extra insurance. You are now ready to change the fluid. (if you don’t level the car, you won’t be able to get the correct fill level in the transmission.)
   

   Jacking up the Prius rear to level

6. Climb under the vehicle and locate the drain and fill plugs on the CVT transmission. Find two 10mm Allen plugs on the end of the transaxle. The fill plug is just behind where the right wheel half shaft comes out of the transaxle. The drain plug is down and further to the left. The inverter coolant drain is on the bottom, the two we are interested in are on the end of the unit (toward the passenger’s side).
7. Remove the fill plug. Both plugs will be tight and you may need some leverage. Always remove the fill plug first!
   

   Dirty Prius CVT Drain Plug

8. Remove the drain plug and drain the old fluid into a pan.
9. When it is finished draining, put the drain plug back and tighten to 29 ft-lbs. with a torque wrench. Use the new washers purchased from Toyota when buying the ATF fluid.
   

   Toyota Prius Clean CVT Drain and Fill Plugs

10. I snaked a hose down between the inverters and the firewall right over the fill plug and stuck it in the fill hole. Put a small funnel in the hose and started poring in the fluid. Use Toyota ATFWS purchased from the dealer. Don’t use anything else. This is a precision instrument and this fluid is designed for it. Anything else is risky and you’re only going to do this once every 100k miles.
11. After adding 3 quarts, have an assistant watch while you slowly pour about another half quart in. Once it starts to come out of the hole, stop pouring.
    

    Toyota Prius CVT Transmission Fill Funnel and Tube

12. Insert the fill plug with a new washer and tighten to 29 ft/lbs. with a torque wrench.
13. Check for leaks after putting away tools and funnel.
14. Remove jack stands and jack. Drive car off of ramps. You’re done! Drive around and know that you are taking good care of your Prius!

2004 Toyota Prius

In September of 2011, I sold my wife’s Jetta TDI and started looking for a fuel efficient, sustainable vehicle for her to drive with an automatic transmission.

I try to make sustainability an important part of all my life decisions including purchasing a car.  Here are the prioritized criteria I used for the decision:

1. I want to buy a used car so I’m recycling an existing vehicle and not introducing another new vehicle into the global fleet.
2. I want a fuel efficient car that uses as little petroleum as possible for the distance I cover.
3. I want a vehicle that can use alternative/renewable fuel sources other than petroleum.
4. I want a reliable car that won’t require tons of maintenance and parts replacement to keep it running.

After much research, I found that the second generation Toyota Prius built from 2004 to 2009 is a very reliable, fuel efficient vehicle that uses electricity for a portion of its propulsion.  While electricity isn’t always produced from renewable fuel sources, it definitely has that as an option.  I can eventually install a plugin kit where I can charge it with solar or any other fuel source that I can use to generate electricity.

I spent a month researching the Prius using online resources like Priuschat to determine the right questions to ask and troubleshooting inspection points to check when buying a used Prius.  Here are some of the questions and troubleshooting points I used:

1. Check Carfax for the vehicle accident report.  I didn’t want a wrecked and rebuilt Prius.  The Synergy drive systems are complex and there is risk that rebuilding the car might not be done correctly.
2. Do a complete visual inspection inside and out making note of any visible problems with the vehicle.  This includes testing all of the features such as lock/unlock buttons, window operation, gauge operation, lighting, tires, undercarriage, etc.
3. Use troubleshooting sequences to verify condition of the primary and auxiliary battery systems
4. Check fluid levels and condition
5. Look for a Check Engine light.  Make sure stop, drive and start the car at least three or four times to make sure the Check Engine light wasn’t reset by the owner before the test drive.  If you get a check engine light, ask to drive it to a local Toyota dealer and have them pull the codes and give you an estimate on the repair.  Some codes like coolant valve malfunctions can be hundreds of dollars in labor to fix and are only repairable by a Prius-certified service shop with proper equipment.
6. Most Toyota dealerships will do a free pre-sale multi-point inspection of any Prius.  Find one and get it done.  You won’t be disappointed and can negotiate price using this report.

Once you are satisfied with the condition of the vehicle and make the purchase, here are the suggested updates to make on the car after purchase:

Reconditioning Steps:

1. Change all fluids.  This is an easy DIY project except for the inverter coolant.  If the previous owner doesn’t have proof of an inverter coolant flush and the car has over 100k miles, go ahead and get it done by the dealer.  Otherwise, wait until you get a check engine light for any coolant-related issues to change the inverter coolant and make sure they perform the flush during the service.
2. Change the spark plugs using Toyota or OEM equivalent spark plugs.  Get the right ones for best performance.  The good news is most Toyota dealerships have good parts pricing and you won’t save much by shopping elsewhere if you are buying the correct OEM replacement parts.
3. Change the PCV valve if you have 100k miles or more.  These eventually clog from carbon deposits and the check valve sticks.  This will affect driving performance and/or fuel economy.
4. Change the CVT transmission fluid.  I’m singling out this fluid change since it isn’t recommended by Toyota but should be done at least every 100k miles.  It does get dirty and running any petroleum-based product for more than 100k miles or more isn’t a good idea. (especially since these 2nd generation Priuses can run over 300k miles before needing an overhaul)
5. Have a Toyota dealer or a good independent shop check the brakes and suspension for wear.  Repair or replace worn components.

Once this is complete, you should be ready to go for a long, sustainable auto life!

Mercedes 5 cylinder diesels of the 1980's

Over the past 40 years, there have been a few vehicle models that stand out as excellent examples of superior design and engineering. Typically, they are models at the peak of a certain engine design. What also makes these vehicles sustainable? I used the following criteria for defining a sustainable vehicle:

Reliability – The fewer repairs and parts replacements, the more sustainable the vehicle. The longer they last, the fewer new vehicles have to be built to replace them.

Biofuel ready – Cars that can run on renewable biofuels are more sustainable. The more flexible they are for different fuel types the better.

Fuel Efficient – Vehicles that use less fuel are more sustainable. An extremely fuel efficient vehicle that will run on multiple biofuels is about as sustainable as you can get.

EMP Hardened – This is more of a preventive criteria for sustainability. In the event of an electro-magnetic pulse (EMP), vehicles that are not EMP-hardened will have all electronic systems permanently damaged and disabled. Any vehicles that use electronics would fail and be inoperable until new electronics are installed. I consider cars that are completely disabled to be a sustainability issue. Vehicles that can continue to run indefinitely even after any type of EMP are a more sustainable option. An EMP can be caused either by natural or Man-made sources. Severe solar storms or a nuclear explosion in the stratosphere are two possible causes of powerful EMP events.

There are certainly other criteria that could be used such as use of recycled materials in construction, the recyclability of components and the distance from where components are sourced and where the vehicle was manufactured vs. the destination of sale/usage. However, most auto manufacturers from this time period didn’t have any of this on their radar.

Here are my TOP THREE Sustainable Vehicles of the 20th Century:

1. 1981-1985 Mercedes Diesel Vehicles

2. 1993-1998 Dodge RAM 2500 Cummins Diesel Trucks

3. 1999.5-2003 Volkswagen TDI Vehicles with 5 speed Manual Transmissions

One of my Biodiesel Jetta TDI's

Half way through the model year in 1999, Volkswagen introduced a new body style of their Jetta with an improved “ALH” TDI engine.  When combined with the 5 speed manual transmission in any of the body styles, this drivetrain was extremely fuel efficient and very reliable.  This 1.9 liter direct injection diesel engine was available in the Jetta, Golf and Beetle body styles.

The average fuel mileage ranged from 45-50mpg without any special driving techniques or modifications.  The fuel system was very flexible and can be run on biodiesel with little modification.  Even though this is a direct injection engine, waste vegetable oil can be used as fuel if a heated, two tank conversion kit is installed that gets the injection temperature of the fuel up to at least 160*F.

Stay away from automatic transmissions.  They are prone to failure and are very expensive to repair or replace.

Pros

• Engines are extremely reliable
• There are lots of online resources for technical troubleshooting and inexpensive parts
• Extremely fuel efficient. Averages 45-50mpg without tuning or hyper-miling
• Can be run on biodiesel with little effort. Just replace the fuel return hoses with viton or another fluoro-elastomer hose.

Cons

• Interior and body parts are of low quality. Parts tend to break. The engine and transmission will outlast the body.
• Avoid autumnatic transmission vehicles. The auto transmission is prone to failure and is very expensive to repair.
• Timing belt and water pump MUST be replaced at recommended interval. Older models can be retrofitted to a 100k mile interval by replacing rollers, tensioners and all recommended auxiliary parts during timing belt change. Failure to service at recommended interval will cause timing belt failure and damage to head, valves and cylinders.
• EGR systems are prone to coking in the intake manifold and throttle body. They need to be cleaned when the Check Engine light comes on and is an EGR-related code. There are EGR deletion kits that prevent this but are not legal for road use.
• Vacuum hoses tend to harden with age and crack. They need to be replaced at around 100k intervals or when failure occurs.
• Cooling systems should be maintained properly and only VW pink coolant should be used. Switching to green coolant or mixing the two will cause issues for cooling system components.
• Injection system is electronic and is not EMP-hardened. There are mechanical injection pumps that can be retrofitted to make it EMP-hardened

Buying Guide

• Most used VW’s from this era will have the check engine light on.  Take it to a chain store and have the codes read.  The problem is likely EGR or glow plug system related.  These are not hard or expensive to fix but you should adjust the buying price accordingly.
• Plan on replacing the timing belt and water pump immediately after purchase unless the previous owner can produce a recent invoice for replacement.  In this case, call the repair shop and find out what types of parts they used.  You can’t assume a 100k mile service interval unless you are certain these updates were performed during the last change service.
• Refer to online VW TDI sites for more technical troubleshooting.  Fred’s TDI Forum is a great resource for knowledge.  ID Parts or AutohausAZ are good choices for inexpensive parts.

Preventative Maintenance

• Change the oil every 7,500 miles with a full synthetic oil such as Shell Rotella T6 or Mobil-1 Full Synthetic (5W40)  Use good quality oil filters and replace o-rings during the oil change
• Service the timing belt and water pump immediately when service intervals are reached.
• Replace the fuel filter every 30k miles or as needed from dirty fuel
• If you suspect water in fuel, make sure to use the drain plug in the fuel filter to periodically drain off the water and contamination.
• Change the manual transmission fluid every 60-100k miles depending on usage
• If you have an automatic transmission, sell it. (changing the fluid could cause problems if it wasn’t serviced regularly)

In 2004, Volkswagen introduced a new diesel engine called the PD which used a high pressure fuel system and other modifications to the camshaft and valves.  They require special additives to the full synthetic oil and are prone to cam lobe failure.  Later TDIs from 2006 and on had more updates.  There is not enough information on these models to recommend.

NOTE: Volkswagen diesels built before 1999 are also very reliable and fuel efficient. However, there were some issues with head gaskets on earlier 1.6 diesel engines. If the cooling systems are properly maintained and the fuel injection system or turbo are not over-boosted, they are very reliable and fuel efficient.

Dodge RAM 2500 12 valve Cummins Diesel

In 1993, Dodge introduced an updated version of their Cummins 6BT 12 valve diesel engine that used a Bosch P-7100 mechanical injection pump.  When combined with the all mechanical 47RH hydraulic automatic transmission, buyers have the ultimate, bullet-proof work truck rated for 3/4 ton and 20mpg.

Later models introduced the 47RE electronic version of the automatic transmission that exposed the truck to typical issues with electronics on vehicles. (prone to failure after prolonged use and expensive to repair)

Vehicle Specifications

• 12 valve Cummins 6BT Engine
• Bosch P7100 Injection Pump
• 47RH Hydraulic Automatic Transmission (or 5 speed manual)

Pros

• Extremely reliable drivetrain with proper maintenance
• Bullet-proof mechanical injection pump
• All mechanical transmission with no electronics
• Compatible with biodiesel by replacing soft fuel lines with SAE30R9 fluoro-elastomer-lined high pressure fuel hose. This is available at most chain auto parts stores and is called, “high pressure fuel hose” Make sure to check the spec printed on the hose to make sure it is SAE30R9 (R6, R7 are not biofuel compatible)
• Can be run on refined, de-watered vegetable oil with a two-tank system where the oil is heated to at least 160*F before injection.
• Gets good fuel mileage/weight ratio. Averages around 20mpg for a non-tuned stock engine. This is almost twice the fuel mileage of the gas-engine version of the same truck.

Cons

• Killer Dowel Pin (KDP) One of the dowel pins that holds the timing cover to the front of the engine block tends to work its way out of the timing cover and falls out. It sometimes falls into the timing gears and destroys the gears and timing cover. This can be prevented by installing a KDP kit that keeps the dowel pin from falling out. There are several variations including one method that replaces a nearby bolt with a longer version and an egg-shaped offset washer that covers the dowel pin opening.
• Some models came with the 47RE automatic transmission. This is an electronic version of the original hydraulic 47RH transmission. It contains electronics so it is less reliable and is susceptible to failure from EMP.
• This is a direct injection diesel engine. Running it on vegetable oil with injection temperatures less than 160*F will cause coking on the rings and cylinder walls resulting in eventual engine failure.
• This is a heavy truck so suspension components are a point of failure and require replacement if used for heavy towing
• -Electric windows are not EMP-hardened so would fail from an Electromagnetic Pulse.

Buying Guide

• Look for 47RH transmission
• Look for Bosch P7100 injection pump
• Have compression checked on engine
• look for oil leaks at front timing cover for possible KDP issues
• Ask if KDP has been repaired
• Check condition of oil
• Check condition of transmission fluid (burn smell is bad)
• Check Suspension for wear. (lift front end and shake wheels)  This shouldn’t stop you from buying but will help you adjust the buying price and plan for near term repairs.

Preventative Maintenance

• Change the oil every 3-5K miles depending on usage. Use name-brand 15W-40 oil(Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo, etc.) and good quality oil filters.
• Replace fuel filter every 30k miles with good quality replacement filters.
• Change the transmission fluid and filter every 30k miles (drop pan to change filter)
• Adjust transmission bands every 60k miles for best performance
• Change rear diff fluid every 60k miles
• Flush cooling system every 2 years

Late in 1998, Dodge introduced a new 24 valve Cummins 6BT engine with a new injection pump design.  Unfortunately, the new injection pumps were very sensitive to fuel pressure.  If the lift pump stopped providing enough fuel pressure, the injection pump would completely fail and require rebuild or replacement.  This problem was so common that kits were developed to retrofit the older Bosch P7100 injection pump to the newer 24 valve diesel engine.

Mercedes 5 cylinder diesels of the 1980's

By the early 1980′s, Mercedes had hit the pinnacle of design and engineering with their 4 cylinder and 5 cylinder diesel engines.  The cast iron heads were bullet-proof and the pre-combustion chambers made them the perfect engine for using alternative fuels like waste vegetable oil.  Both the manual and automatic transmissions were also built strong and seldom had issues as long as they were maintained properly.

Models

240D, 300D, 300CD, 300SD, 300TD

Pros

• 5 cylinder diesel engine is legendary and is one of the best engines ever built
• Both automatic and manual transmissions are extremely reliable with proper maintenance.
• Cars are luxurious with very comfortable seating and ride
• Engine runs on biodiesel
• Engine runs on vegetable oil either with one or two-tank systems. Heated two tank systems are the most reliable and will prolong engine life and reliability compared to blending in one tank.

Cons

• Climate, locking and control systems are vacuum-actuated. Vacuum lines become brittle and crack with age. This causes vacuum leaks and failure of control systems. Vacuum systems can be repaired but troubleshooting and repair is tedious
• Hydraulic suspension on the 300TD wagon tends to fail with age and is expensive to repair or replace. If it fails, the system can be retrofitted to regular shock absorbers. This is the recommended repair method to avoid future expensive repairs.
• Leather seats tend to crack and split with age. The MBTex vinyl is more durable
• Dashes crack with age and wood laminate trim tends to peel
• Parts are expensive. Cars that were not maintained properly can cost thousands of dollars to restore. Your best bet is to learn how to fix the cars yourself. There are many online resources for technical knowledge and inexpensive parts.

Buying Guide

These cars are 30 years old now and many of them were not maintained properly by second and third owners.  If you are mechanically inclined, these are great cars to fix up and run as a primary vehicle.  If you are not mechanically inclined, you will spend thousands of dollars paying a German repair shop to keep one of these running.  Keep that in mind when choosing this as your source of transportation.

Here are a few items to look for:

• Watch out for transmissions that slip in and out of gear.  They will likely need to be rebuilt
• Excessive white, grey or black smoke could be a sign of serious engine issues.  White smoke could mean a blown head gasket, grey smoke could indicate excessive engine wear and black smoke could indicate problems with the fuel injection system.  Proceed carefully and make sure you are familiar with proper diagnosis before buying a vehicle with one of these issues.
• An inoperable Air Conditioning system could be a simple vacuum leak or a more serious problem requiring major component replacement.  Research diagnosis methods online and verify the issue before buying a vehicle with inoperable air conditioning especially if you live in a region where AC is not just a “comfort option” but mandatory.

Preventative Maintenance

1. Change the oil and filter every 5k miles with brand name (Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo, etc.) 15W40 oils and quality filters
2. Change the primary and secondary fuel filters every 30k miles or as needed due to poor fuel quality.
3. Change the auto transmission fluid and filter every 30k miles
4. Invest in a set of wrenches for adjusting valves.  This should be done every 60k miles.  Change the valve cover gasket when adjusting the valves.

In 1986, Mercedes introduced a new diesel engine with an aluminum head.  Aluminum is prone to crack when overheated and these engines were not exempt.  They also had problems with connecting rods in the 3.5 liter diesel engine in the 350SDL. By the early 90s, electronic controls replaced vacuum systems which are prone to failure and expensive to repair like most other contemporary gas and diesel engines.

NOTE: Mercedes has always built extremely reliable diesel vehicles before 1985. Therefore, choosing a diesel vehicle built before 1981 is also a good choice. The 300SD is the most powerful of these cars since it has a turbo. Most other pre-1981 Mercedes diesels are normally aspirated and do not have as much power. However, some will arguer that the non-turbo diesels are a better choice due to a less complicated combustion system.

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Below are the top ten ways you can save gas in your car.  Try a few of these productivity enhancements and help reduce our dependence on foreign oil.

1. Tire Pressure – Check tire pressure and bring it up to recommended levels

2. Use Synthetic Engine Oil – Synthetic oil reduces friction in the engine and lasts longer between oil changes..

Correct tire pressure and use of synthetic engine oil together will cut gasoline use by 1-3%

3. Use a Light Touch on the Accelerator and Brakes – Coasting up to red lights or traffic jams saves fuel. Avoid Jack-Rabbit starts (except in many hybrids where quick starts can save fuel)

4. Drive Slower – The slower you drive, the less energy it takes to propel you and your car down the road.

5. Buy a hybrid – They are more fuel efficient than a traditional gas car by using an electric motor and batteries to supplement propulsion as well as turning off their engines when they’re stopped.

6. Remove unused heavy junk from the trunk – A lighter car takes less energy to propel it down the road.

7. Open windows and turn off the AC at speeds under 35mph – If you are going faster than 35mph, roll up all the windows and turn on the AC. Open windows cause drag at high speeds that burns more fuel than running the AC.

8. Put shades in the windshield when parked to keep the auto interior cooler – It will take less fuel to cool off the car when you get back in to drive.

9. Use a Trip Computer – If your car has a trip computer that will display interactive fuel mileage, leave it in that mode. Studies show that monitoring the fuel mileage on a trip computer provides feedback that helps drivers keep good habits and use less fuel. A British Government report shows that this type of “eco-driving” can save as much as 10-15% of fuel in the long run and costs nothing to implement.

10. Work from home - Work from home one day a week and stay off the road if possible.

All of these productivity improvements together can save a 2010 net present value of $400 billion dollars. For more information, see Reinventing Fire, by Amory Lovins.

After reading a great poston visualizing energy, I thought I’d share with you the video produced by Getty Images for corporations to use as a point of reference when they are trying to promote and brand clean energy.

What images help you to better understand complex topics like energy and alternatives to fossil fuels?  Join the conversation and let us know what you think.

How Do I Reduce my Petroleum Usage?

I see many articles on ways that people can reduce their usage of oil in the home and in their lifestyle.  Bike to work, buy a scooter, buy natural fiber clothes.  All of these will make some difference but is it really the best bang for the buck?  Here is a short list of the best ways you can make a difference and use less oil

1. Buy a more fuel efficient car. This is “hands down” the very best way you can impact your daily use of petroleum.  I own a ’99 VW Jetta TDI diesel sedan that gets between 40 and 55 miles to the gallon.  If all of us bought cars that get 40 miles to the gallon, we’d reduce our daily oil consumption from between 2 and 3 million barrels a day.  That’s barrels of crude oil.  Therefore, the actual savings in gallons of gas would be between 40 and 60 million gallons per day!

I told you it would be a short list.  Don’t ignore the small changes like using washable cloth grocery bags and avoiding plastic water bottles.  All of these things add up but the best way to impact our oil consumption is to drive a more fuel efficient vehicle.

It’s time to trade in the Hummer for a Hybrid!  (or a small diesel sedan or wagon)

We want to hear from you about ways that you reduce your dependence on oil.  Come join the discussion in the Vehicle Efficiency forum at the Mapawatt Community.